My first Tet in Vietnam: A ‘banh gio,’ some snacks, and a lesson learned

I still remember my first Tet (Lunar New year) in Saigon like it was yesterday.

Editor's note: Darren Chua, a Singaporean who has traveled between Singapore and Ho Chi Minh City for more than 12 years, recalls the shock of witnessing the city empty out for the first time as people flocked back to their hometowns for Tet, leaving behind a silent, unfamiliar city. In recent years, however, Tet in the city has changed significantly.

Coming from Singapore, I thought I knew what a 'big holiday' looked like. Since both countries are in the East Asian cultural sphere, I expected the usual: lion dances, red packets, and maybe a bit of a crowd at the malls.

I was not prepared for the 'Ghost Town' phase.

The great disappearing act

Back in 2014, the transformation was wild. One day, the city was its usual chaotic, motorbike-honking self—and the next? Silence. It was actually quite spooky. I walked out of my apartment in District 10, on Ba Hat Street, and felt like I was in a movie where everyone had just vanished.

The Shock: Every local market, banh mi stall, and my favorite com tam spot were shuttered with those heavy metal gates.

The Hunger: As a foreigner who didn't 'stock up for winter,' I spent my first Tet morning wandering like a lost soul. I eventually survived on a banh gio (steamed rice dumpling stuffed with minced pork and wood ear mushrooms) and some snacks from a nearby Circle K.

The Contrast: In Bangkok or Taiwan, there's always something open. But Saigon? It literally went to sleep as everyone went back to their hometowns.

Fast forward to now

It's a completely different vibe these days. The city doesn't 'sleep' anymore; it just changes its outfit.

Now, malls stay open, and many trendy cafés in Phu My Hung or Thao Dien don't even close for a day. The younger Vietnamese generation actually wants to go out rather than just eating braised pork and eggs at home for five days straight!

The legendary surcharges

If you're out and about, you'll notice the 'Tet surcharge.' Most cafés add 10-20 percent to the bill to cover higher staff wages, which is fair.

However, my students warned me about the 'Karaoke Trap.' Apparently, some big karaoke parlors hit you with a 200-percent surcharge! I've never experienced it myself (thankfully), but they say between holiday rates and 'service fees,' a night of singing can cost more than a flight back to Singapore.

Speaking of flights, back in 2018, I heard from my colleague about surging airfares that were just as crazy. She tried to book a last-minute trip to Ha Tinh, and the price was VND6 million (US$231.13)! That's basically triple the usual rate. With that money, I could have flown back to Singapore twice over and still had change for chicken rice.

My pro-tips

Grab is Gold: It's harder to get a ride and fares double, but it's better than walking in that 'summer' heat.

The Beauty: Take a walk down Nguyen Hue. Even though it's crowded, the flower displays are stunning. It's the one time the air in Saigon actually feels fresh!

I've grown to embrace the quiet. It's the only time of year you can actually hear the birds chirping in the middle of the city.