Korean makgeolli meets Vietnam’s finest rice in Lee Minkyu’s brewing journey

On a year-end evening, invited by Jovel Chan—a Singaporean food blogger living in Ho Chi Minh City—we attended a cozy makgeolli tasting on the second floor of a building in District 1.

There, Korean brewer Lee Minkyu, founder of IIUM—a craft makgeolli brand based in Ho Chi Minh City, enthusiastically introduced makgeolli, South Korea’s traditional rice wine, to a group of about ten guests from different parts of the world.

Beyond tasting the makgeolli prepared by Lee, guests also embarked on a journey into the artistry and science behind this unique drink.

As Lee explained, the drink relies on just three key ingredients: rice, nuruk, a natural fermentation starter, and water.

Yet, the nuances in brewing techniques and rice varieties yield an array of distinct flavors and textures.

The makgeolli-making process begins with steaming rice, then mixing it with nuruk before fermenting and aging at a low temperature of 2-4 degrees Celsius.

The combination of cooked rice and nuruk allows the rice starch to convert into sugar and ferment into alcohol, creating makgeolli’s signature flavor.

The fermentation and aging time vary depending on the brewer’s preferences and the style of makgeolli they wish to produce.

"For my makgeolli in Vietnam, I use Vietnamese rice. Do you know ST25? It was named the world's best rice!" Lee suddenly asked the international guests, catching us off guard with a mix of surprise and pride.

Korean makgeolli, Vietnamese rice a perfect fit

Lee’s brewing journey began in South Korea about five years ago, where she became interested in making makgeolli after a one-day workshop.

Captivated by the fermentation process, she later continued to pursue formal training, earning a Korean traditional liquor sommelier certification and eventually serving as a judge at makgeolli competitions.

According to her, makgeolli is a truly unique drink because, unlike most alcoholic beverages that undergo pasteurization for storage and distribution, it remains unpasteurized, allowing the yeast and microbiomes to stay alive inside the bottle.

“While that makes refrigeration and distribution quite challenging, it’s also what makes makgeolli so special,” she said.

“With makgeolli, you get a fresh, organic flavor that’s vibrant and lively. 

"I don’t add artificial sweeteners or carbonation, so it’s a very natural drink.”

However, brewing makgeolli remained a hobby for Lee in Korea until over two years ago that she and her son moved to Vietnam with her husband for his job.

Rather than leaving her passion for makgeolli behind, Lee saw an opportunity to experiment with the diverse rice varieties available in Vietnam, something that would have been much more limited in South Korea.

“In Korea, if I want to introduce variations, I have to infuse makgeolli with other ingredients like fruits or vegetables,” she explained.

“But here in Vietnam, I can make a variation just with the rice because there are many variations of the rice which produce different aromas and tastes.

“Only by changing the rice can I make very different types of makgeolli.”

Currently, Lee is using Vietnamese graines of ST25, nep cai hoa vang, nep Tu Le, and com Hanoi (Hanoi young green rice) for her makgeolli.

“Whenever I steam it for brewing, the aroma is very nice,” Lee commented about ST25, the Vietnamese grain that was named World's Best Rice in 2019 and 2023. 

"I really want to use high-quality rice for my makgeolli.”

Bringing makgeolli to Vietnam’s culinary scene

Beyond tasting events, Lee has also collaborated with chefs to showcase her craft makgeolli in high-end culinary settings.

One notable event took place in January at Labri, a Michelin Selected restaurant in Hanoi, where a Korean chef sought high-quality makgeolli to complement his dishes.

Lee crafted a special selection for the occasion, including makgeolli infused with strawberry, brewed with com Hanoi, as well as double-mash makgeolli—a higher-alcohol version.

The enthusiastic response from both Vietnamese and Korean diners reinforced her confidence in brewing makgeolli in Vietnam.

Now, she is busy every day experimenting with different types of makgeolli at her brewing room in Thao Dien, known for its large expat community in Thu Duc City under Ho Chi Minh City.

Her educational background in biology has also been incredibly helpful.

“Makgeolli is highly sensitive to temperature and hygiene because of its living microorganisms, so keeping everything in the right conditions is crucial,” she said.

“My experience working in university labs taught me how to manage variables carefully, which has been a huge advantage in maintaining consistency and quality in my brewing process.”

Lee believes that makgeolli pairs beautifully with Vietnamese cuisine, particularly with dishes like nem nuong, cha gio, goi cuon, ga nuong muoi ot, and stir-fried vegetables.

As a rice-fermented drink, makgeolli enhances the fresh and savory flavors of these dishes.

In South Korea, almost every restaurant serves it, and Lee hopes to see the same in Vietnam.