Mekong Delta by bicycle: Discover the real road less traveled in Vietnam

With this reputation in mind, last month, I decided to take a 370km, six-day ride by bicycle to discover the region for myself.

In Vietnam, the Mekong region has a character like no other. With its millennia of history, French occupation, and modern-day rebuilding, it is the lack of tourist attractions that reveals the true character of its towns and cities.

We took a six–day bicycle ride from Ho Chi Minh City, ending in the former city of Rach Gia, now part of An Giang Province.

The trip included stopovers in Tan An (formerly a city, now part of Tay Ninh Province), Cai Be (formerly a district, now part of Dong Thap Province), Can Tho City, and Long Xuyen (formerly a city, now part of An Giang Province).

It is difficult to put into words what we observed. The long straight roads, canals and simplicity of the region were a photographer’s heaven, yet offered little in the way of traditional storytelling.

People were mostly very accepting of our presence. Having basic Vietnamese conversation skills brought us into contact with farmers, old ladies, café owners and people from all parts of the community. It was the part of the trip I hold with emotional warmth and will never forget. The smiles, waves and even one impromptu hug from a lady in a banh mi store just south of Long Xuyen brought out the true character of the place.

As a summary, each day was a unique experience with new characters, new roads and a new vibe as we passed through each town and city. Here is a snapshot of what we experienced.

Day 1 – Ho Chi Minh City to Tan An

The back roads of Long An, now part of Tay Ninh, brought a familiar yet rewarding experience. I have often traveled short distances through Long An because it is close to Ho Chi Minh City. The farmers and local kids find the presence of Westerners very amusing, and we seemed to have conversations and handshakes at every corner along the way.

The rice fields and farms were simply stunning. Approaching Christmas, many rice farms shone with a deep green tinge spread across the open land. Graves sit above the lush greenery as a reminder that the new will always appear, but Vietnamese people never forget their families or ancestors. It was a sight that spoke to the culture of this region and of Vietnam.

We stayed in the small town of Tan An on the first night. A hotel for VND250,000 (US$9.51) had almost everything you could ask for at that price. And being only 400m away from the night food market, we were able to navigate a few rats and enjoy a wonderful local dish of banh mi nuong (grilled bread with a mix of meat, egg and vegetables).

Day 2 – Tan An to Cai Be

Our ride on day two took us down broken roads and along tracks between farms. This was where we truly found the road less traveled. These roads were rarely touched by Westerners like us.

Along the way, something strange kept happening. As we stopped to say hello to farmers along these tracks, almost every one of them insisted on giving us directions to the next town. It was incredibly polite and incredibly friendly.

The most memorable farmer was a 65-year-old man and his wife. He had been out spraying his fruit crop. He saw us standing on a small bridge and came up to ask if we were lost. This was rather funny because two Westerners sitting in the middle of nowhere usually don’t have Vietnamese communication skills.

As soon as I replied in Vietnamese and explained I had basic communication skills, his face lit up and he shouted to his wife, “Hey, these men speak Vietnamese!” He was so happy. He then invited us back to his home for a drink. We politely declined because we were trying to beat the midday heat, but it was a heartwarming example of the character of this area.

Eventually we reached the riverside town of Cai Be. There were limited hotels, and our VND200,000 ($7.60) room ended up being the worst hotel experience I’ve had in Vietnam. However, this is all part of the adventure, and we took the challenges in good spirits.

Day 3 – Cai Be to Can Tho

Seeing Cai Be behind us may have been one of the most relieving moments of the trip. The landscape changed quickly as the canals and river tributaries became more frequent and longer.

We found ourselves on straighter roads, following rivers and only changing direction to cross the many bridges. It was a wonderful morning with perfect weather for riding.

Vinh Long was a quick stop for coffee and a view of the Mekong from atop the massive bridge that crosses the river. It was a majestic portrait of the vastness of the region.

More rivers, broken roads, small towns and bridges took us all the way to Can Tho. Our final adventure of the day was a ferry that turned out to be a boat small enough for about six bicycles and a few people. In this tiny vessel we crossed the 2km-wide Mekong River and arrived in Can Tho City mid-afternoon.

Day 4 – Can Tho to Long Xuyen

Can Tho was a wonderful experience and a place you need to visit. The road to Long Xuyen was straight and sealed. It was a fast ride that showcased the best the region has to offer: its people.

We followed the river north and found our 67km ended much earlier than expected.

Long Xuyen was the biggest surprise of the trip. A lovely town, yet seemingly untouched by tourism. As far as 'end of the world' moments go, this was it for me. After more than a decade in Vietnam, I never thought I would make it to Long Xuyen. And after seeing it, I am keen to return one day to explore its character in more detail.

Day 5 – Long Xuyen to Rach Gia

Like day four, our final riding day was straight, with many bridges crossing the endless canals of the region. It was simply amazing.

The people made this day for me. I received a hug from a lady in a banh mi store just south of Long Xuyen, and many schoolchildren chased us along the road wanting to say hello and share a moment.

Arriving in Rach Gia was a bittersweet moment. The people and the views made me want to keep going, but the ride had come to an end, far too quickly in my view.

Day 6 – Home by bus

A 6:00 am bus out of Rach Gia for me and my bicycle marked the moment I returned to my life. I felt sad and proud that I had seen so much, had a small impact on so many people, yet felt the pain of the adventure coming to an end.

By 11:00 am I was back in Ho Chi Minh City and back on my bicycle for a 35km ride to my home on the other side of the city.

The memories of a trip to the Mekong will stay in my heart forever. The people will, as they did for me, have a profound impact on you, and the countryside is something that can’t be explained. It has to be seen to be understood.

In the Mekong, you must go slow. You must be prepared to stop and to smile, because it is a world where people are at the centre of the experience.

A few months ago, when I wasn’t doing so well, my mate Grant invited me on a little six-day ride across the Mekong. He dragged me down the road less traveled. Today I am a better, happier person because this was a life-defining experience, one I recommend to anyone wanting to find the true heart of Vietnam.

You have to get to the Mekong Delta and see it for yourself.

Below are some photos of the Mekong Delta we took along the way: