Hue’s fermented acetes paste latte puts a bold twist on Vietnamese coffee

The staple ingredient of the central Vietnamese city seems an unlikely coffee ingredient, so the unusual combination has drawn curious customers eager to try its unusual layers of flavor.

Le Huu Phuoc, 36, a representative of TOC Gallery in Hue and the creator of the drink, told Tuoi Tre (Youth) online newspaper that the idea came from a desire to bring distinctly Hue flavors into coffee, a drink deeply familiar to Vietnamese people.

When coffee tells local cultural stories

Known as ruoc latte, the drink combines Robusta beans from Nam Ban in Lam Dong Province in the Central Highlands with Arabica beans from A Luoi in Hue, along with mam ruoc, cream and shaved tuna flakes.

The name alone is enough to pique curiosity.

“Ruoc latte catches people’s attention right away because of its name. Coffee and mam ruoc seem to belong to two completely different worlds: one is a familiar morning drink for Vietnamese people, while the other is a common flavor in Hue’s cuisine. So many customers’ first reactions are curiosity mixed with hesitation,” Phuoc said.

Phuoc said the Arabica grown in Hue’s mountainous A Luoi region does not have the pronounced fruity or floral notes associated with some other renowned Arabica-growing regions.

Instead, it has a mild, clean acidity and a moderate coffee aroma, making it suitable for adding brightness to the drink.

“We still wanted to use A Luoi Arabica because of its local story. An ingredient does not have to be luxurious to be worth telling a story about. What matters is understanding it, using it in the right way and telling its story,” he said.

While the A Luoi Arabica provides a lighter character, Nam Ban Robusta gives the drink a fuller body.

The beans are roasted medium-dark, a level suited to the preference for strong coffee among many customers in Hue, while also providing a counterpoint to the Arabica’s mild acidity.

“In this structure, Robusta does more than provide a base, add caffeine or make the coffee stronger. It gives the drink depth and helps retain its aftertaste when cream, mam ruoc syrup and the smoky aroma of shaved tuna are added.

That keeps coffee at the center rather than turning it into a supporting ingredient for the local flavors,” Phuoc said.

According to Phuoc, the shaved tuna does not make the drink taste fishy. Instead, its light smoky aroma comes first, helping soften the pungency of mam ruoc.

This is followed by the mildly salty richness of the mam ruoc-flavored cream, the robust flavor of the Robusta, the clean acidity of the Arabica and a lingering umami note from mam ruoc, before fresh milk blended with condensed milk rounds out the finish.

Customers are encouraged to drink the latte layer by layer rather than stirring it all together or using a straw, turning the cup into a small tasting journey.

Robusta is more than a supporting bean

The combination also offers a different perspective on Vietnamese Robusta.

“For many years, Robusta has often been regarded as an everyday bean or something blended in to add body.

But when the growing region, processing method and roast level are carefully selected, Robusta can play a role in complex, layered drinks, including creative beverages made with local ingredients,” Phuoc said, drawing on his years of experience creating drinks.

The ruoc latte costs VND55,000 (US$2.1) a cup.

According to a TOC representative, customer traffic increased by about 40 percent after the drink was introduced, with domestic visitors making up most of the curious crowd.

The coffee shop also serves cold brew Magarita cham cheo, which combines Vietnamese cold brew coffee with Hue lime and local chili-salt seasoning.

TOC Gallery is a combination of a men’s hair salon, coffee shop and cellphone store. Its drinks also feature distinctive names, including Toc Den, or black coffee; Toc May, or milk coffee; Toc Bac, or fresh milk coffee; and Toc Muoi, or salted coffee.

Phuoc said Vietnamese Robusta, with its broad appeal and distinctive boldness, still has plenty of room to move beyond familiar drinks such as iced milk coffee and bac xiu, a Vietnamese-style coffee mixed with condensed milk and fresh milk.

He believes young creators can use the bean to develop new drinks with a distinct identity and tell Vietnamese stories to international audiences.

“Not everyone will choose ruoc latte as their everyday coffee. But the fact that Hue’s mam ruoc can make its way into a cup of coffee shows that local ingredients still have many stories to tell. With its distinctive strength, Robusta can serve as a bridge between familiar flavors and new ways of enjoying them,” he said.