Fermented flatfish paste, a rare Da Nang delicacy once offered to royal court

Although life in local fishing villages has changed significantly, traces of traditional coastal life remain in the narrow seaside alleys of Thanh Khe.

There, mam ca danh is preserved like a local treasure.

Recently, at fairs showcasing traditional products in Da Nang, small jars of mam ca danh made by a woman known as Aunt Mua have attracted considerable attention.

Produced in very limited quantities, the jars sell for between VND35,000 (US$1.33) and VND160,000 ($6.08), depending on size.

The price is modest given the labor, time, and patience required to make the paste.

Its true value lies not in cost, but in the slice of history and central Vietnam's coastal food culture it carries.

A rare delicacy

Nguyen Cang, a 66-year-old fisherman from Thanh Khe, said mam ca danh is considered a premium fermented fish paste and was traditionally believed to have been offered to emperors and the royal court, particularly during Tet (Lunar New Year).

The fish are rare, the fermentation process is demanding, and the resulting flavor is exceptionally rich, unlike any other fermented fish paste.

As a result, mam ca danh was never widely produced, making it all the more cherished among coastal communities.

Ca danh (flatfish) live close to the seabed in shallow waters and can be caught year-round, though they are most abundant and flavorful in summer.

The fish have flat bodies, smooth skin, and range in color from light to dark brown.

Their flesh is firm but sparse, and the small bones make them difficult to eat fresh.

For generations, fishermen have dried the fish or fermented them to fully capture their natural richness and sweetness.

Aunt Mua, one of the few remaining producers in Thanh Khe, said that in the past, dozens of households in the Thanh Khe-Ha Khe area made mam ca danh.

Today, due to declining fish supplies and the labor-intensive process, only a handful of families continue making it, mostly for personal use or as gifts rather than for sale.

A scent that evokes memories

What sets Aunt Mua’s mam ca danh apart is its simplicity. It contains only three ingredients: the fish, salt, and time, with no additives, no preservatives, and no shortcuts.

Freshly-caught fish are carefully selected, with heads and fins removed before being mixed with salt at a ratio of about 300 grams per kilogram of fish.

The mixture is then placed in jars and sun-dried for half a day.

Each day, it is stirred to allow the fish to naturally break down.

Once the flesh has softened, the bones are removed and the paste is then transferred to ceramic jars or glass bottles and left to ferment further in the sun or near a stove.

According to traditional knowledge, the paste matures in about 100 days, though longer fermentation only improves the flavor.

When ready, mam ca danh turns ivory white if the skin is removed, or dark brown if the fish is left intact.

The paste has a light, smooth consistency and a distinctive aroma.

To the uninitiated, the smell can seem strong or even unpleasant, but to those familiar with it, the scent is deeply evocative.

During the spring season, a simple bowl of mam ca danh mashed with green chilies and garlic, a pinch of MSG, and a squeeze of lime is enough to elevate an entire meal.

The paste pairs well with boiled pork belly, sweet potato leaves, pumpkin blossoms, rice, or vermicelli.

But perhaps the best pairing is with thin rice paper rolls filled with pork and fresh herbs, dipped into mam ca danh, a seemingly simple combination that leaves a lasting impression.